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A single hutch falls well short of what the RSPCA says rabbits need. This article works through the space, the company, the kit and the cost of keeping a pair, using RSPCA and PDSA figures.
Why it is a pair, not a single rabbit
The RSPCA's position is that one rabbit needs another rabbit, unless a vet or a qualified animal behaviourist advises otherwise. Rabbits kept alone can develop abnormal behaviours, and the charity treats a companion as part of the basic setup rather than an extra.
The pairing it describes as a good combination is one neutered male and one neutered female. Both rabbits should be neutered before they meet, and males can take up to six weeks to become sterile after the operation, so the introduction waits until then. The RSPCA says to speak to a vet before attempting to bond rabbits.
That has a direct effect on the budget. Everything below is for two animals, and neutering two rabbits is a cost to plan for before they are bonded. The multi-pet household calculator on the front page of this site adds two entries together, which is the sensible way to work out a pair.
How much space two rabbits need
The RSPCA says a living space for two medium-sized rabbits should be no smaller than 3m x 2m x 1m, covering the shelter and the exercise area together. That is 6 square metres of floor and enough height for a rabbit to stand on its hind legs without its ears touching the roof. The charity's guidance is that a small hutch should never be a rabbit's only home.
In practice that means one of three set-ups:
- A shed or large outbuilding converted for rabbits, with an attached run
- A purpose-built enclosure in the garden, with a raised shelter
- A pen or a rabbit-proofed room indoors
For an exercise area, a large Ad folding rabbit run or playpen is the cheapest way to get the floor area, and it can be moved around the garden or folded away. Measure the space before you buy anything, and compare it with the 3m x 2m figure.
Floors, shelter and hides
Three details come straight from the RSPCA's housing advice:
- Floors should be solid and non-slip. Wired or barred floors are not recommended because they can hurt rabbits' feet, and where a floor is unsuitable it should be covered, with newspaper given as the example.
- The main shelter should be large enough for every rabbit to rest together, and raised off the ground.
- Provide one hiding place per rabbit, plus one extra if you can. A Ad wooden rabbit hide counts, and so does a plain cardboard tunnel.
Temperature matters too. The RSPCA gives 10 to 20 degrees Celsius as the ideal range and says to provide shade as it approaches 20 degrees or when it is sunny.
Bedding, hay and the food budget
The RSPCA wants dust-free straw or hay on top for bedding, with absorbent material such as newspaper or dust-free, non-cedar wood shavings underneath. Hay is also the main food.
The RSPCA's proportions for a healthy adult are:
- 85% hay and grass, with a rabbit-sized bundle of good-quality hay every day
- 10% leafy greens, herbs and weeds, a large washed handful daily
- 5% pellets, about 25g per kilogram of body weight
Take a rabbit weighing 2kg as an example. That is 50g of pellets a day, which comes to 1.5kg over a 30-day month. Pellets are the small part of the bill. Hay is the bulk purchase, so a large box of Ad meadow hay for rabbits will usually go further per kilo than the small bags on the shelf. Ad Dust-free rabbit bedding is the second bulk item. The RSPCA also says water should be fresh and changed twice a day, which a Ad heavy ceramic water bowl makes easier because it does not tip.
Vaccination and neutering
PDSA says pet rabbits in the UK should be vaccinated against myxomatosis, RVHD-1 and RVHD-2. Two vaccines are available: one covers all three diseases and the other covers the newer RVHD-2 strain, with doses given two weeks apart. The first is given at about five weeks old and a yearly booster follows.
Indoor rabbits are included. PDSA recommends vaccinating them because the diseases can spread through insects, wild rabbits and contaminated items such as clothing and shoes. It gives no price and says vaccination costs vary from practice to practice, so ring your vet for the figure rather than assuming one.
What PDSA says a pair costs
PDSA's costs page, last calculated in 2024, gives these minimums for a pair of rabbits:
- Indoor: £980 to set up, £80 a month, and £7,700 to £10,600 over their lifetimes
- Outdoor: £922 to set up, £84 a month, and £8,000 to £11,000 over their lifetimes
The setup figure covers bedding, initial vaccinations, hay and food, food bowls and water bottles or bowls, a carrier, microchipping, neutering, toys, grooming equipment and insurance. Indoor adds a litter tray and scoop, bunny proofing, hides, an indoor pen and a sandpit. Outdoor adds a waterproof home, an exercise run and flystrike prevention. It does not include the cost of buying or adopting the rabbits, vet fees for illness or accidents, boarding or pet sitters, or special diets.
£80 a month is £960 a year, and it is a minimum. Treat it as the starting point for the calculator's annual figure, then add what your vet quotes.
Kit for an indoor pair
Indoor keepers should expect to spend on protecting the home as well as the rabbits. Rabbits chew, so Ad cable covers around anything with a lead are the first job. The second is a Ad secure carrier for vet visits, because the carrier is in PDSA's setup list and a top-opening one is easier to lift a rabbit out of.
Buy the large items once and measure for them. The cheap items, such as bowls and toys, can wait until you see what your rabbits actually use.
Putting it in the calculator
Select rabbit, enter your monthly food cost, and put the vet figure from your own practice in the annual vet box. Add the one-off setup separately, since the calculator covers the running cost of a year. The same arithmetic applies to the first-year costs for a dog or cat, which the puppy and kitten timeline sets out.